Milos: 3 Days in the Untouched Greek Island
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Milos, one of the lesser known Greek islands, has a lot to offer for all travellers. Unique beaches, coastal adventures, welcoming villages and a surprisingly rich history are some aspects that make Milos the perfect active and relaxed travel destination.
We caught a morning flight from Athens to Milos, hopped into a taxi upon arrival and made our way to Pollonia. Unfortunately we arrived at the beginning of a very windy week but weren’t disappointed with Milos’ natural beauty unfolding before our eyes at every turn. Milos has an intriguing charm with plenty of surprises waiting to be discovered.
Day 1
- Checking in to Niki Savvas & renting car
- Exploring Pollonia
Day 2
- Quick stop at Papafragas Cave
- Visit to Adamas town
- Exploring Sarakiniko Beach
Day 3
- Visiting Klima, the fishing village
- Trek to Tripiti via Ancient Theatre & Catacombs
- Exploring Plaka and the Plaka Castle
Day 1: Arriving in Pollonia
We stayed at Niki Savvas in Pollonia, which provided great accommodation in terms of location and comfort. Our host, like most of the local people we met in Milos, was warm and friendly. She helped us organise a rental car, which we believe is the best way to get around this little remote island (especially if you’re planning on staying in this area).
Our car wasn’t expected to arrive until the next day so we spent the rest of our afternoon exploring the quiet town. Our excitement kicked off as we walked along the sea shore, watching locals play basketball on a simple court with an endless view of the sea behind them. We stopped for lunch at Alkis, where we had delicious gyros, feta and chips. Alkis is more laid back than other restaurants in the area, which kept us coming back especially when we wanted something quick and easy.
We stayed at Niki Savvas in Pollonia, which provided great accommodation in terms of location and comfort. Our host, like most of the local people we met in Milos, was warm and friendly. She helped us organise a rental car, which we believe is the best way to get around this little remote island (especially if you’re planning on staying in this area).
Our car wasn’t expected to arrive until the next day so we spent the rest of our afternoon exploring the quiet town. Our excitement kicked off as we walked along the sea shore, watching locals play basketball on a simple court with an endless view of the sea behind them. We stopped for lunch at Alkis, where we had delicious gyros, feta and chips. Alkis is more laid back than other restaurants in the area, which kept us coming back especially when we wanted something quick and easy.
Day 2: Papafragas Cave, Adamas & Sarakaniko Beach
Our plan today was centred around visiting Sarakiniko Beach. We decided to visit Adamas, the busier town in Milos, to have some lunch beforehand.
On the way, we made a quick stop at Papafragas Cave. Unfortunately, the wind was still incredibly strong so we weren’t able to venture too far or do any cliff diving as it would have been far too dangerous.
However, the views of the coastline were beautiful and made the stop worthwhile.
Adamas Town
We only visited Adamas briefly. We found this town to be lacking in terms of atmosphere, but it may have been due to the early hour of the day.
We stopped for some pastries, ate some gelato and had a quick browse through a grocery store (picking up some red wine for later) before moving on to Sarakiniko Beach.
Sarakiniko Beach
Sarakiniko Beach is the main attraction for most travellers visiting Milos. It’s known for its unique moon-like surface with white volcanic ash formations and caves.
The beach is like an adult playground with a lot to explore. We enjoyed walking along the rock formations and seeing different views of the beach. This beach is the perfect place for all you photographers, as you will notice the other-worldly views and crisp environmental textures.
For those who like cliff jumping, there is a cliff on an incline that you can jump off into the deep blue. As you head to the bottom you can swim in the emerald green water, explore sea caves and find man-made caves. The unique features of this beach truly makes it magical and worth the visit.
We visited in the morning and found a spot in the car park easily. Our experience in the morning was pleasant as there weren’t many people around. Unfortunately, we didn’t get the chance to watch the sunset here which we heard is a must-do experience. As the sun goes down, the sun reflects off the white rocks and blue sea and lights up the sky with shades of purple and pink.
The drive to Sarakiniko Beach was safe, particularly on the main road. However we had a problem when we started to drive off onto dirt road and towards a narrow path. We recommend that you follow the local map rather than Google Maps to avoid a similar situation.
Day 3: Exploring Klima, Tripiti and Plaka
Klima, the fishing village
The colourful seaside fishing village of Klima is another must-see on the itinerary. The village, which is known for its long strip of multi-coloured balconies and doors, is located near Tripiti. There is not much to do in Klima besides walk along the bay while taking in the picturesque view of the traditional fishermen houses, also known as syrmatas.
However the scenic view, friendly locals and peaceful atmosphere were enough to make this day trip one of the most memorable from our travels to Greece.
Tripiti
If you’re interested in the history of the ancient city of Melos, we recommend you stop at the Ancient Roman Theatre and the Christian Catacombs. To get there you can hike up the path from the fishing village and stop to check out the views from above Klima. Both attractions are situated on the slopes below Tripiti.
We drove to Tripiti and parked at the first parking spot we found to avoid narrow roads (as this is common in Milos so plan accordingly). It took us approximately 45 minutes to hike down the winding dirt road and reach Klima at the bottom. It is probably best to ask a local for directions (which we did) to the Ancient Theatre and the Catacombs, as there weren’t any visible signage from the fishing village. The hiking trail back up involved steep inclines and uneven surfaces so we recommend wearing appropriate footwear and taking caution.
By midday, we built up an appetite after the trek and enjoyed a delicious Greek meal of assorted meats and pita. This was at Glaronisia in Tripiti, which we highly recommend.
Plaka
Re-energised from our big serving of lunch, we then decided to explore Plaka by foot. It must have been siesta period when we wandered around the quiet town, as there weren’t many people nearby and most restaurants/shops were closed.
Our main reason to visit Plaka was to see the Venetian Castle of Milos, also known as the Plaka Castle. As we made our way up the hill, we enjoyed the walk through the narrow streets and sights of Cycladic style houses. Plaka is known for being the most characteristic town on this island and we can agree there is a beautiful charm about this village.
Plaka Castle is situated at the top of the hill overlooking Milos. Once we reached the Castle, we took our time taking in the incredible panoramic view of the north-western part of the island.
Last thoughts
In some ways, Milos felt like taking a step back in time. There is so much to see and do here without hordes of tourists at every spot.
It was calming, with incredible natural scenery and charming, distinctive towns.
We just wish we got lucky with the weather, giving us the opportunity to explore the island more.
What we would have done differently
- Go on a sailing tour. Due to the strong wind conditions, sailing tours were cancelled the week we were in Milos. This would have been a great opportunity to get a closer look around different areas of the island.
More from Greece
Athens: A Short Stay in the Ancient Capital
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Before we set off to the Greek Islands for 8 days, we had 2 full days to explore Athens, the ancient capitol of Greece.
Day 1
- Walking tour with Athens Free Walking Tour
- Athens Central Market
- Acropolis Museum
- Dinner and wine tasting at Cinque
Day 2
- Food excursion in Monastiriki and surrounding areas
- The Acropolis
- Watched a film at Thision Open Air Cinema
Plaka: Where we based ourself
We stayed in an Airbnb in Plaka near the Akropoli metro station less than a 5-minute walk to the south entrance of the Acropolis itself. From here, we could get everywhere in the city centre in less than 20 minutes of walking. The centre itself is dense and full of incredible restaurants, historic sights, museums and shops.
Our host, Giannas, welcomed us to Greece with a shot of Ouzo and some recommendations on what to do in the area. We soon learned that Plaka itself is very much catered to tourists. Whilst very beautiful to explore, we couldn’t help but feel it was all just a big show for tourists. Giannas recommended the Monastiraki area for restaurants and nightlife. Our walking tour guide, Michael, echoed these same thoughts, claiming that no Greek people eat food in Plaka!
Good to know in retrospect, and painfully obvious when strolling through and all you see is touristy shops and restaurants. Although the proximity to the Acropolis was excellent and the area was quiet in the evenings. Everything being in walking distance meant it never became an issue.
Day 1: Walking Tour, Central Market, Acropolis Museum and a Wine Bar
Athens Free Walking Tour
We started the day bright and early with a walking tour with Athens Free Walking Tour. When travelling to a big city like Athens, a great way to get a feel for the layout, vibe and culture is to take a walking tour. Across Europe there are walking tours for all budgets. Based on experience, the free ones I have done have all been incredibly useful. Nowadays, they’re an essential part of visiting a new city for us.
Before setting on our way we grabbed a couple of macchiatos from the Coffee Island that was nearby.
We want to avoid spoiling all of the surprises of the tour and just give an idea of what you will be doing and seeing:
- You’ll hear historical facts and modern insights about Athens
- You’ll get great food and nightlife recommendations
- You’ll get ideas on what to see and do for the rest of your time
- You’ll have the opportunity to ask your guide about anything
Our guide, Michael, was very well educated in ancient history and has a deep knowledge and understanding of Athens.
The tour lasted a little under 3 hours and finished in Monastiraki. We took one of Michael’s food recommendations and had an incredible lunch at O Thanasis. The moussaka we had there was the best we had during our time in Greece.
Central Market
The Central Market is a noisy and bustling fresh produce market. The main hall sells meat and seafood whilst the surrounding area sells vegetables, herbs and spices.
We arrived in the early afternoon. There was still a lot of activity with plenty of sellers around. The seller’s area feels like a relic of the past and not the kind of thing you’ll see in a central part of a modern city. This authentic and local feel really adds to its charm.
Even if you’re not buying, wandering through the market is an experience for the eyes and nose. Although, if you’re a vegetarian or turned off by the smell of meat you may want to skip this place.
Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis Museum is dedicated to the archaeological discoveries from the Acropolis. It can be a good idea to visit here first before going to the Acropolis itself. But either order works.
This sleek, modern building first opened in 2009 and was a welcome respite for us by the blaring summer heat. Close to 4,000 objects are on display here and there are great views of the city from the restaurant terrace.
Entrance only costs €5 and is a great stop for a couple of hours. If you can, hire a guide and you will get so much more out of it!
Restaurant: Dinner and wine tasting at Cinque
After some much needed afternoon rest from a packed day of sight-seeing we headed out to Cinque. This is a place to bring your loved one, sip on some divine wine and talk about your experiences of the day.
We sampled a bunch of different wines and shared a meat platter together. The owner explained the origins and optimal tasting experience of each wine we tried. We aren’t serious wine drinkers but I imagine a wine fanatic would get a lot out of this place!
The staff were cheery and helpful, and our names were printed out and placed in a frame for our table when we arrived. These little details are what makes a night at Cinque an unforgettable experience.
We recommend booking beforehand as it’s a very popular place. We got lucky and managed to secure a booking on the day.
Day 2: Food Excursion, The Acropolis and an Open Air Cinema
Food excursion
Our day was planned around visiting the Acropolis in the afternoon. This was to avoid the mass of crowds and hot weather. We also didn’t want to get burnt out on ancient sites and monuments beforehand.
We both love Greek food and wanted to sample as much of the local food as possible. What better place to do that than Athens? We hastily researched where we should eat and put together a list.
O Kostas
First stop was O Kostas to try the best souvlaki in Athens. Or so they claim. O Kostas is a family run business that has been around for over 65 years. They serve a simple, old fashioned style of souvlaki for €2 each. An absolute bargain.
We both went for pork and devoured it quickly. It was delicious. We could have easily had several more! We had to leave some room for the other food stops though so it was off to get some coffee next.
TAF_theartfoundation
The unusual name of this cafe stood out to us and good things happen when you combine art and coffee. This stylish spot was full of Greek people of all ages enjoying a chat and coffee. We ordered a couple of iced coffees from here as that seemed to be what was popular.
The coffees were fine. The space itself, however, seems to be the main draw. It feels hidden away and makes a great escape from the chaos outside.
Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki
Next up was sampling some Greek style pastries at Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki. The pastries are known locally as Bougatsa. We tried spinach and feta cheese and minced meat. Both were amazing and started our love affair with these pastries.
They’re a common breakfast meal and we had them often during our stay in Greece.
Acropolis of Athens
To put it simply, visiting The Acropolis is an absolute must-do whilst in Athens. In the summer months it can get extremely busy, like most of the big ticket sites across Europe. We were advised to visit in the early afternoon, as the mornings tend to be busier and by then the big crowds have finished up and left to eat lunch.
Another tip we came across was entering via the south entrance, which is closer to the Akropoli metro station and Acropolis Museum. This entrance tends to be much quieter than the main one. We lined up for less than 5 minutes to get our tickets here.
One of the best parts about visiting are the smaller temples and sites you can explore as you ascend to the top, where the visually iconic Parthenon rests. You also get great views of the city.
Thision Open Air Cinema
Our last stop for the day was the Thision Open Air Cinema. Located near the Acropolis, this retro cinema has a lot of charm and ended up being one of our fondest memories of Athens. It was the perfect place to unwind after a long day of exploring.
Tickets are well priced and so is the popcorn (and other snacks) and alcohol. There is an intermission during the middle of the film where you can stock up again also. All of this while you sit under the stars with the Acropolis in the background.
Visiting in the evening is essential, and we imagine it would get quite chilly outside the summer months.
After the movie we went back to our Airbnb for some much needed rest. We had an 8am flight the next morning to head south towards Milos, a beautiful island famous for its rocky landscape.
What would we have done differently?
- Stayed in Monastiraki. We found ourselves walking in and out of that area a lot. We could have saved some time and been closer to all the great restaurants and bars.
- Hired a guide for the Acropolis and Acropolis Museum. Whilst we still had a great time exploring, the copy on the info boards can’t tell a story the way a historian can.
- Spend at least another day to try more of the local cuisine or even go on a food tour. The food in Milos and Santorini (our next stops in Greece) never quite matched what we had in Athens.
More from Greece
Santorini: 5 Days in the Most Famous Greek Island
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Is Santorini overrated?
We knew that the stunning landscapes and gorgeous sunsets would be lovely, but would we be surrounded by a Disneyfied version of Greek culture and unbearable hordes of tourists?
Santorini is one of the most famous holiday destinations in the world so it’s natural to have these fears. What we found was fakeness existed in certain areas, but authenticity and kindness always surrounded it.
Day 1
- Exploring Finikia
- Watching the sunset in Oia
Day 2
- Exploring Oia and Amoudi Bay
- Dinner at Lefkes
Day 3
- Trek between Oia and Fira
Day 4
- Exploring Megalochori and Pyrgos
- Venetsanos Winery and Santo Winery
Day 5
Day 1: Catching our first glimpse of Santorini
We travelled to Santorini by Ferry from Milos and arrived in the early afternoon. Our Ferry stopped in Athinios, the new port. Along with thousands of other people, we were shuffled into vans to be taken to our accommodations. We were treated to beautiful views as we drove the winding road from Athinios to the main stretch of land, 260m above sea level.
Our destination was Finikia, a small town just outside Oia, known for having a local and authentic feel but within walking distance to the big draws of Oia.
Maria’s Place and Finikia
We stayed at Maria’s Place. A mid-range option that wouldn’t break the bank. We sacrificed luxury for location and customer service which is a good option in expensive places like this.
Maria, the guesthouse owner herself, was full of character. When we checked in she gave us tips on where to go in Oia, local restaurants and what to do around the island.
We went out for a short walk through Finikia and stopped for lunch at Meze Meze before getting ready to head out that evening.
Watching the sunset in Oia
That evening, we walked to Oia to witness one of the most famous sunsets in the world. This is one of the most romantic settings in all of Europe and there is a sense of cautious anticipation in the air. A lot of people are visiting Santorini on their honeymoons. You don’t want the place you’ve dreamed of visiting for years be disappointing, right?
It seemed like everyone on the island of Santorini had made their way out on this night to enjoy the sunset as well. There was a stark contrast between ourselves and other travellers to the glamour of these high-end restaurants and bars.
We foolishly made our way to the Byzantine Castle Ruins, the most famous place to watch the sunset from, to find a spot. That proved impossible.
After some time we found a quiet spot on top of a brick railing (with only a dozen or so others) to enjoy the beautiful view.
We’d have rated it a 10/10 if we had the view to ourselves.
Day 2: Oia & Amoudi Bay
The following morning we walked back to Oia to explore the area without the heavy crowd and to grab a cheap bite for breakfast. Not the easiest task in this part of the island but we eventually stumbled upon traditional Greek bakery To Fourni, located near the bus stop and main parking area. After devouring a couple of cheese-filled pastries we headed into the glamorous heart of Oia.
The majority of walls and surfaces in town are painted white. They’re painted from a range of soft, pastel shades to stunning, bright pops of blue. This creates that iconic look that the Greek Islands are famous for. The consistency of this look is remarkable.
There are beautiful old churches to admire and the town is full of winding pathways and platforms to walk or climb up onto. All of these offering different views of the surrounding areas. It’s quite easy to find a spot here to be on your own.
You’ll catch glimpses into some of the ultra-luxurious villas and suites scattered around also. The vertical layout of town takes away some privacy.
We went back to the Byzantine Castle Ruins for a sweeping view of Oia. The area is surprisingly open and without too many fences to stop people from exploring. We saw some people taking full advantage of this and taking some incredibly risky selfies.
Exploring Amoudi Bay
Amoudi Bay can be accessed fairly easily from Oia. All that it requires is a 15–20-minute walk down 300 or so steps. The steps themselves, particularly at the top, have been polished to comical levels like much of the surface in Oia, causing people to often slip at the beginning. Something to keep in mind!
The walk down treats you to views of Amoudi Bay and the surrounding calderas. There are donkeys along the way which you can pay to take you up and down the steps. We politely refused that proposition.
When you reach the bottom you’ll see seafood restaurants, a dive shop and a pick-up and drop-off spot for some boat tours. There is also a ferry that can take you to Thirassia from here a few times a day. A cheaper option if you wish to explore that island than going on a boat tour.
Continuing past the seafood restaurants you will reach a rocky pathway. Making your way through here will lead you to a swimming spot where you can swim out to rock nearby for cliff jumping.
Dinner at Lefkes
Lefkes, located in Finikia, offers traditional food in a contemporary, ambient setting overlooking the small town towards the sea.
The food is delicious and the staff are casual and friendly. It was a short walk from Maria’s Place but still within walking distance from Oia. We would recommend trying this restaurant, especially if you are looking to escape the crowds in Oia and want some delicious, modern greek food. Bookings essential.
Day 3: Trek from Oia to Fira
The following morning we walked back to Oia to explore the area without the heavy crowd and to grab a cheap bite for breakfast. Not the easiest task in this part of the island but we eventually stumbled upon traditional Greek bakery To Fourni, located near the bus stop and main parking area. After devouring a couple of cheese-filled pastries we headed into the glamorous heart of Oia.
The majority of walls and surfaces in town are painted white. They’re painted from a range of soft, pastel shades to stunning, bright pops of blue. This creates that iconic look that the Greek Islands are famous for. The consistency of this look is remarkable.
Given that we were staying in Oia, we started from the Oia side and made our way to Fira. I personally feel the trek would be better the other way around. Starting in Fira and finishing in Oia allows for you to start in a busier area where you can grab coffee and breakfast and then finish in more natural, quieter surroundings.
The walk takes you through Oia, Finikia, Imerovigli and Fira and has a constant view of the coastline and sea. Part of the enjoyment is that it's not heavily signposted. Although, at one point we followed a trail around a caldera that turned to a steep drop down at the end. Be wary of this and exercise caution. It may mean you have to follow a road for a while.
When you finish in Fira, there are a lot of options for brunch or lunch and plenty to see in the area too. Being the islands primary commercial hub too, you will easily be able to catch a bus to wherever you are staying on the island.
We were exhausted after the walk and only spent an hour so exploring Fira before heading back to Oia.
Day 4: Day Trip to Megalochori and Pyrgos
Megalochori and Pyrgos are smallish towns located south of Fira. They are famous for their quiet, laid back nature and for the wineries that are nearby. Pyrgos was once Santorini’s capital city and both towns maintain a traditional and local charm.
The towns receive their fair share of tour groups during the day, however, so they are by no means untouched. They both maintain the distinct Santorini look and if you veer off the main roads in town you will be by yourself, free to explore and wander as you please. Be careful with that though, it’s easy to end up in someone's backyard The open and cascading nature of their town layouts make this an easy mistake to make.
To reach these towns, we caught a bus to Fira and changed at the main bus terminal there. It’s fine to stop at either town and walk to the next one once you are finished as they are very close to one another.
Venetsanos Winery
Venetsanos Winery was easily our favourite drinking establishment we visited during our trip to Greece. The decor is rustic and the layout is open, winding down several levels.
It’s possible to tour the winery itself but we didn’t have time. We ordered from the tasting menu and tried a few reds and a rosé. Keep in mind we aren’t wine connoisseurs, but I can safely say they were all amazing.
Our sommelier was a young, friendly guy from Athens who told us stories about his parties in Santorini and then invited us to a beach party later that night. We took a raincheck on that one but enjoyed his energy.
We also ordered a side of the tastiest vine leaves we’ll likely ever eat in our lives. They aren’t to be missed.
Santo Wines Winery
To finish the day we headed to the nearby Santo Wines Winery for some more wine tasting and to watch the sunset, seemingly, once again, with most of the tourists on the island.
This is the more popular of the 2 big wineries in the area but we enjoyed Venetsanos Winery more. This place seemed to lack character. If it wasn’t for its location there wouldn’t be much to be said about it at all.
In front of where we sitting were a couple of aspiring influencers. For the entire hour we were there they recorded Instagram stories, took selfies, and asked staff members to take photos of them. We (and everyone around us) sat in awkward discomfort as we tried to enjoy the view of the sunset which was beyond them.
Too drunk to handle reading the bus schedule we arranged for a minivan to take us home to Finikia.
Day 5: Boat trip to the Volcano and Thirassia
Our evening flight wasn’t until midnight so we wanted to use our last day to see a different side of the region.
We took a budget-friendly tour out to trek the volcanic island of Nea Kameni, sail past a sulfuric hot spring and spend the afternoon in Thirasia.
We paid 45 euros each for our tour and you can pay a bit more to see the sunset in Oia afterwards. There are plenty of higher-end tours you can go on as well if you’re willing to splurge.
Trekking on the volcanic island of Nea Kameni
There is a slight sulfuric smell in the air that lends credibility to what you’re about to embark on. The trek from the port to the top of the volcanic hill is quite flat and easy and should take around 45 minutes.
The highlights are the views across the sea towards Santorini. The turquoise waters contrasting beautifully against the volcanic rocks, luxury cruise liners and island of Santorini.
Our guide was very well informed on the area, although we, unfortunately, missed out on most of what she was saying as we were away from the group exploring on our own.
Exploring Thirasia
The last stop is a portside town on the quiet island of Thirasia. There isn’t much to do here but there is a steep walk up the caldera that will treat you to some beautiful views, once again.
There are also some seemingly abandoned buildings at the top. Relics of a past attempt at turning this area into a tourist haven? Who knows. Its a mystery to us, for now.
There are places to stop for tea, coffee and lunch at the top. We finished the tour after this stop, getting off at a port near Finikia as the rest of the tour boat went off to watch the sunset in Oia (old news for us at that point).
Our next stop was Venice! Read about it here.
Last thoughts
Santorini was truly magical. We loved our time here and feel that there is something for everyone. It wasn’t the overrated tourist trap we feared it would be.
Being here felt like you were part of something too. There is a definite excitement in the air when you visit places of this magnitude as we mentioned earlier, and you’ll feel it during your entire stay.
Combine Santorini with one of the lesser-known Greek Islands, like Milos, and you’ll get a great sense of what they have to offer.
What we would have done differently
- We didn’t end up going to any ‘typical’ beaches during our trip to the Greek Islands. Perhaps we should have dedicated a day here to do that?
- Visited Thirasia on a day trip from the local port and had more time to explore. I feel there was more to this island that we missed due to our short timeframe that our tour had stopped here for.